Burgundy with Monsieur Labet
March 8th, 2010 by
Nicolette Escobar
This February at the Beverly Hills Hotel, I met François Labet, the man behind the largest single estate in Burgundy’s famous Clos de Vougeot vineyard. Hosting a Burgundy Wine Seminar and Tasting with the most renowned Burgundy exhibitors, he has been touring from Far East China, Korea, Japan, Canada and the U.S. presenting what he refers to as “the best companion for food,” Burgundy wine. As sommeliers from around the city gathered anxiously, I sat down with Monsieur Labet to find out what makes “Burgundy” so special.
Primarily of the Pinot Noir or Chardonnay variety, Burgundy wine is generally characterized by the region in which the grapes are harvested. Found only in the Northern Hemisphere, these specialty wines require a continental climate free from the ocean breeze. Environments such as the Seattle-Canadian border for example, where the winters are fierce and the summers are hot and dry. This temperate yields an evenly manufactured fruit with nothing in excess; alcohol, acids, oak, and tannins. Of course France is where the “true” commodity is born and bred. From the tip of the Côte de Nuits to the edge of Mâconnais, the region produces only 6 percent of French wines, and .3 percent of wines worldwide; the Grend Cru being the crème de la crème.
The key to the success of the fruit lies within the terroirs, the unique characteristic geography bequeaths upon particular varieties and the method in which man has utilized these forces. For Monsieur Labet, this dialogue between man and nature has become intrinsic in his trade. His roots are profoundly entrenched in wine-making, dating back to his grandfather, former mayor of Beaune. Additionally since 1992 he has specialized in organic wines, free from additives that enhance the vines, employing a historical approach of plowing to activate the soil. Monsieur Labet has also eliminated insecticides from his process using a relatively new solution termed “sexual confusion” in which female pheromones are released, steering away their mates.
Compared to “New World Wines” Burgundy wines, produce a very balanced fruit. Whether they are red or white they are distinguished by their rare delicacy, and elegant aroma. “What we like in life is a question of balance”, words of wisdom from Monsieur Labet, and with only 13 percent alcohol, and minimal sugar, this is the quality we look for in the 21st century.
Image courtesy of Fleishman-Hillard International Communications
