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You may know [Avery Ginsberg](https://www.averyginsberg.com/) from [Instagram](https://www.instagram.com/averyginsberg/?hl=en) or [YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/user/GearedTowardGear), or maybe you recognize him from the latest Zadig et Voltaire runway. Though Ginsberg is more commonly celebrated for his sustainable lifestyle, which spawned the genderless, ethical brand [STAATSBALLETT](https://staatsballett.co/) with Kailee Mann, and the plant-based food blog, [Song From Forest Floor](https://www.instagram.com/songfromforestfloor/?hl=en). Today, Avery launches an entirely new tune with [Ground Cover](https://www.instagram.com/groundcoverfootwear/?hl=en), and it’s debut General Issue [_8 Eye Boot_](https://www.ground-cover.com/).
The footwear, accessory, and home goods label philosophizes form following function, which for Ground Cover, means timeless and genderless designs of ethical construction. Fabricated with agricultural waste from commercial pineapple farming, the _8 Eye Boot_ is 100% free from animal products and nearly 100% biodegradable. Pre-launch, we caught up with Ginsberg to chat all things Ground Cover, and sustainable production.
**_You co-founded STAATSBALLETT in 2017. You also ran a brief footwear business designing shoes for friends in middle school. Now, you’ve created Ground Cover. Tell us about what led you to this moment._**
Two things, which have been in constant flux since those early days, have finally aligned: knowing myself and wanting to build. When I started painting shoes and sewing clothes in Missouri I knew nothing of the field, and was actually embarrassed of my interests. Insane combo right? For some reason, I thought it would be a bright idea to start a clothing-centric YouTube channel... I guess I had this burning desire to join a community. Any community. I transitioned from altering physical goods to making virtual content, and as I learned more about the industry, pattern making, and life itself, I had the innate desire to create something less ephemeral than social media allowed. Online connection is an instantaneous but fleeting connection. As I eventually progressed with Staatsballett, I tried to approach design with a strong sense of responsibility and purpose, but overtime, I wanted to break away from the fashion cycle and focus on sustainability combined with form and function.
**_Do you believe consumers are shifting towards a slow-fashion mindset? Why?_**
Many individuals seem to be placing a higher value on slower fashion. However, I do think we need real regulatory action in order to make the changes necessary to clean up the seedy underbelly of clothing production. Transparency, labor laws, waste management; all of it is too much weight to put on consumers’ shoulders. Most individuals don’t have the time and privilege to know what they’re buying and where it came from. With that being said, the negative side of the fast-fashion sphere reveals itself a little more each day, and consumers are increasingly attracted to handmade products- imperfect products which are made for life. At which point, “consumers” and “products” may be improper terms.
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**_The boots are nearly 100% biodegradable, but also designed to last. How long of a wear-life will they have? Why is this a better alternative to an everyday boot like Dr. Martens?_**
We want these to last for life! Wearers can expect a few years wear before any resole or serious cosmetic modifications. We also made it as easy as possible for folks to repair their lug soles or uppers via a reliable Goodyear welt. Of course, this all depends on how frequently wearers are hitting the road, and we can’t wait to see some dirt covered, worn in, creased up pairs. Dr. Martens does have some vegan options which is great! The downside is that they are produced using polyurethane- more or less a cheap plastic, and the company as a whole relies so heavily on the farming of animals. Also, since I mentioned the welt, brands such as Docs have proprietary welts and soles which actually prevent cobblers from repairing or replacing.
**_Why did you choose a pineapple fiber boot exterior over other leathers using mushrooms, cacti, or apples? What advice would you give to brands still using plastic vegan leather?_**
We decided to move forward with pineapple fiber after identifying it as the most closed-loop fabric and transparent mill. It isn’t perfect, but it is damn near. The one drawback to the fabric is an outer coating (10% of composition) which contains a polyurethane component and is therefore not biodegradable. The makers are extremely transparent about this as well as their research towards an alternative. Most synthetic leathers, even the plant-based blends, contain 50% or more plastic. As this introduces peeling and cracking, a plastic-dominant product tends to have a shorter lifespan which in turn lives eternally in our environment when discarded. As we move forward, it’s important that we support the mills that are hunting down a truly closed-loop fabric. On top of buying a cruelty-free, lower-carbon product, you will be supporting the research and development of sustainable fabric technology.
**_Your shipping method minimizes the need for excessive packaging and maximizes the function of each component. How should our industry rethink packaging?_**
I’ve always had an issue with the excessive amount of packaging for footwear. I’d buy a pair of shoes and think “what do I do with all of this???” With time, I realized it isn't about my personal preference and my convenience but the generation of so much waste. Being an ecommerce-focused brand has allowed Ground Cover to escape the habits of traditional retail. First, we pack our footwear in our carbon-neutrally milled unbleached undyed tote bag. This flat bottom bag is designed to not only protect the boots but also be used in every realm of daily life. Then, the boots and their bag are packed in our 100% post consumer kraft shipping box. This shoe box doubles as the shipping box preventing huge amounts of waste.
**_Complete sustainability sans animal products is your mission, and a hard one no doubt. How have you navigated this route, and what have you learned throughout all of it?_**
Any information from workers’ safety to animal-free adhesive to waste-management had to be chased down. It takes a lot of pushing and many many follow ups to get the information you need. I didn’t know that in the supply chain, producing an item sustainably would fall so heavily on our shoulders. Facing this in the early stages and making sure we were set up with the correct factories and suppliers proved to be a huge advantage.
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**_Post-launch, what’s next for Ground Cover?_**
We want to slowly chisel out the Ground Cover uniform and home as well as get involved with the community. The 8 Eye Boot is quite versatile, and I love how it can work in so many wardrobes, but I think there is a greater story to tell- even if it is about versatility and form following function. On the horizon, we’re working on some recycled denim, eyewear, and of course varying footwear silhouettes. Post-launch, we’re hoping to have a conversation with our customers, give back to the community, and eventually get on the ground in New York City.
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