Balenciaga’s new Fall 25 collection doubles down on stripping the accessory in terms of fashion creation. For starters, there was no show or big spectacle; instead, Demna showcased the looks through a series of ‘internal use’ images captured on his cellphone — showing the purest form of his creations, with no hair and makeup and letting the silhouettes and cuts speak for themselves.
As for the collection per sé, Demna is gradually returning to what he does best: mixing archival references with his signature, derelict ensembles. Fall 25 opens up with austere evening wear in classic Balenciaga black. Recurring tropes like the Garde-Robe series and dramatically oversized suiting complete the more ‘dressed up’ component of the offering. Things then turn pure highstreet, as classic menswear staples are transformed into gargantuan scarves to cover intricately layered looks that serve as an opening for his purest form of avant-garde streetwear.
Demna’s new offering for the Maison is crowned by a recurring trope: the motorcycle look. This season’s set comes as a monochromatic ensemble emblazoned with patches and accentuated by perforated panels. The pants showcase hybrid construction, combining elements of protective gear and sweatpants. Doubling down on his mastery at construction and fabric, we see a Japanese denim ensemble with a trompe l’oeil that resembles heather gray cotton fabric; miniskirts cut from men’s underwear, a football jersey constructed in leather and a play on inverted proportions — shrunken sweaters on top of oversized Oxford shirts.
As a point of contrast, we find puffed outerwear like parkas, gilets, and bombers constructed with architectonical volumes and highlighted by the Maison’s heraldry. But, where are the gimmicks? This collection’s ‘controversial’ garment doesn’t play too much on the absurd or the ridicule but still gives something to talk about. Just like a celebrity fan-club, Fall 25 t-shirts come printed as nostalgic merch with the faces of Balenciaga’s celebrity entourage.
Besides the standalone pieces, Demna also used the ‘internal use’ images to showcase Balenciaga’s new high-profile collaborations. The most talked about is the one alongside iconic supercar manufacturer Automobili Lamborghini. This capsule blends nostalgic motorsport memorabilia with high-street silhouettes in the form of a Temerario long-sleeve tee. Moreover, we also find a motorcycle-inspired look comprised of a moto jacket and leather pants, emblazoned with the Maison’s logo in typical Lamborghini cursive. And, of course, streetwear basics like sweatpants and hoodies are also made in this manner. As for the accessories, the sportscars’ aggressive lines, key-fobs, and iconic shields serve as inspirations for bags and silver jewelry.
Alongside the Lambo merch, Balenciaga has also joined forces with orthopedic shoemaker Scholl for a full range of footwear. The most avant-garde of them all Is the new Zero silhouette:a footbed held to our foot only by a heel cup and a loop for the big toe. The Monday model, albeit a sneaker, falls nothing short of daring as it mixes the sporty look with a sharp heel; and Scholls’ iconic footbed is also blended with more ‘elegant styles, like heeled mules, bottines, and booties in Napa leather adorned with metal buckles that resonate with Scholl’s original designs. Closing the collaborative capsule, more urban-cozy essentials are flushed with XL logos and dubbed Travel Wear.
On the accessories side, Demna highlights Balenciaga’s most recent Rodeo and Bel Air as-the- it-bags. Their slouchy leather construction creates a great contrast with these hobo-esque urban looks. And as per a flair for the dramatic and futuristic, eyewear continues to explore dramatic volumes and impossible constructions that hail from 90’s rave culture and skiing; Although some 1950’s and 60's nostalgia also can be found in the more classic frames.