Saint Laurent’s Winter 2023 collection reflects the essence of the brand’s classic style, acting as the focal point of precision, emotion, and reservation. Artistic director Anthony Vaccarello combines these core values with his own for the inspiration of the collection, resulting in familiar silhouettes with sharp edges.

The new designs start with a confident new blazer and pencil skirt, the structure of which is juxtaposed with the flowing cloth of signature scarves and bows. This womenswear collection incorporates masculine themes in the form of pinstripes, tartans and glen plaids. However, feminine lightness is evident in recurring pieces of chiffon, crepe-de-chine and mousseline, as well as sheer stockings. The polished proportions evenly exaggerate and accentuate the body.

Recalling the brand’s foundations, the venue of the runway show at Paris Fashion Week is inspired by the ballroom of the Intercontinental Hotel where the brand presented all its Haute Couture collections between 1975 and 2001. In this new space, Vaccarello takes the symbols of that opulent period –striking bronze chandeliers and a uniquely shaped runway– and inserts them into a more modern, art deco-inspired blackbox setting.