At this year's graduation exhibition at the London College of Fashion in the UK, Yumeng Wu and her impressive "GAZE" series in the MA Fashion Artefact program caught the attention of many. Yumeng Wu stood out with her unique designs, showcasing not only exceptional craftsmanship but also conveying profound emotional and philosophical insights.

Creative Background

The inspiration for the "GAZE" series stems from her deep contemplation of the theme of "gaze." She aimed to challenge and subvert traditional power structures associated with gazing through her jewelry design. Yumeng Wu explained that gaze is not just a visual act but also a manifestation of psychological power. In traditional social structures, the gaze often represents relationships of control and subordination, and she hopes that this series allows the wearer to regain this power.

Details and Concept

Each piece in the "GAZE" series is meticulously handcrafted by Yumeng Wu, using materials such as resin and metal to create a visual effect that is both realistic and dreamlike. The most striking elements in the work are the eyes that seem to be gazing.

Yumeng achieves a perfect fusion of visual art and functionality under surrealism through unique eyeball motifs and functional clasps. The jewelry design named "Judgment Gaze" includes various expressions like peeking, surprise, and anger, which can be applied to any

garment with clasps, such as shirts, trousers, and decorative elements on the back. The design's original intent is for the jewelry to capture the gaze when others observe the wearer, subverting the power dynamics between the gazer and the gazed-upon. By combining eyeballs with clasps, a unique visual effect is created that emphasizes the complex relationship between watching and being watched. It stimulates deep reflection on the conflict between hidden desires and true identities.

The inspiration for the "Peeping Gaze" pocket clip jewelry comes from the common silk scarves found in suit and shirt pockets. These pockets are not just functional decorations but also symbolize concealment, secrecy, and personal expression. The contrast between the dignified and formal appearance of the wearer in a suit and the peeping dynamics of the jewelry creates a striking juxtaposition. Observers not only become the focus of the observed but also, in turn, gaze back at the observers. This bidirectional visual interaction not only evokes contemplation about desire, secrecy, and social roles but also initiates an in-depth exploration of visual culture and psychological dynamics, challenging traditional views on power relationships between gazer and gazed-upon.

Research and Development

In creating the "GAZE" series, Yumeng Wu conducted extensive research. Influences from Salvador Dali and Elsa Schiaparelli's surrealist works, as well as Sigmund Freud and Jacques Lacan's psychoanalytic theories, had a profound impact on her creation. Yumeng Wu also explored the representations of gaze across different cultural and historical contexts, with a particular focus on the symbolic meanings of eyes in Eastern and Western cultures. Through observation, experimentation, and constant innovation, she transformed these theories and inspirations into concrete designs. In the production process, she employed advanced 3D modeling technology in conjunction with traditional craftsmanship to create highly artistic and technically sophisticated jewelrv pieces. Yumeng Wu explained that she hopes to push the boundaries of traditional jewelry design through the integration of innovative technologies and craftsmanship, creating artworks that provoke thought and resonance.

Future Outlook

Yumeng Wu's "GAZE" series received high praise not only at the graduation exhibition but also showcased her design talent, earning recognition and admiration from the audience. Her artistic achievements are not confined to her graduation work but also signal her continued potential to push boundaries and create more stunning works in her future design career. She expressed that she will continue to explore the relationship between jewelry, emotions, and psychology, and create more works that evoke resonance and reflection