With decades of expertise and a deep understanding of timepieces, Eugene Tutunikov, CEO and Founder of SwissWatchExpo, is a certified expert on pre-owned watches. Tutunikov’s parents have been in the watch industry for over thirty years, and they built the first brick-and-mortar SwissWatchExpo store in 2009. A family-owned business, SwissWatchExpo isn’t your average timepiece boutique, unless the said shop also has 2,500 to 3,000 watches available at any given moment ready to ship. Boasting the largest inventory of Rolexes in the country, they aren’t the average luxury watch retailer either. He shares, "At SwissWatchExpo, we really treat our customers like family. We are motivated by their satisfaction and not the amount of money they spend. We don’t pay our staff on commission so our customers don’t have to worry about being pressured into a sale. We also build long-term relationships with our clients, and we see it as helping a friend choose a watch."

From the first watch he bought–a Cartier he acquired as an intern on Wall Street, where status is intrinsically linked to where one spends their bonus–to his recent acquisition of a Patek Phillipe for his fortieth birthday, Tutunikov walks us through his love affair with watches and what makes them so special. In a time where the physical is devalued everyday in favor of the virtual, Tutukinov allows us in to discuss the timelessness of a nice watch, the hunt for rare finds, and how SwissWatchExpo remains a leader in an ever-evolving industry.

When did your affinity for watches start? 

Out of college I worked on Wall Street as a derivatives trader, and luxury watches were very much a topic of conversation. It was very common to take your first bonus and buy a Rolex Submariner, Omega Speedmaster, or another luxury watch. As those around me grew through their ranks, so did their collection. 

My first watch was bought during a summer internship on the trading floor at JP Morgan in 2005. I bought a Cartier Roadster Chronograph that I still have to this day. Even as an intern I knew that I was on the path to a successful career after graduation and wanted to purchase a watch to celebrate this. I couldn't afford the watch yet, so my mother and I split the cost which was around $3,000 (with tax) back then I believe. 

How has the industry evolved since you first began working in it? 

My parents have been in the watch industry since the 1990s – my stepfather formerly ran an authorized Rolex service center in Atlanta, and in 2009 he and my mother built our first brick-and-mortar store. From being a derivatives trader and hedge fund executive, I joined in 2016 to help run the business. 

People are definitely more open to buying pre-owned watches now than before, and three key things drive this. 

The first is trust. Before, if one mentioned buying “pre-owned” it meant back alley deals and buying from sites like Craigslist, where authenticity was not certain and fraud risk is high. The pre-owned watch market now has an increasing number of trustworthy and transparent digital retailers. 

The growing practice of transparency in the industry has given customers more confidence to buy pre-owned watches. Online transactions now provide price transparency, whereas some sellers of pre-owned watches wouldn’t even publish their prices until 10 years ago, they would just say “call for price”. Now, there is so much info from e-commerce sites, along with detailed images and listings like ours, as well as photos of the products on social media and in Youtube videos. It has become a much more mature and transparent industry, where the consumer can get a lot more information on any watch before they make their decision to buy. 

At SwissWatchExpo, we maintain both a strong online presence and a brick-and-mortar store where clients can view and inspect the watches and have our sales experts advice them. In addition to reselling watches, we also buy and do trade-ins, giving customers equity in their selection. We really put a premium on transparency and that’s why we can offer a leading 18-month warranty on our watches. 

Second is the growing interest in vintage watches. Watch enthusiasts now want a more personalized approach to collecting. They enjoy the hunt for particularly rare watches, or want a timepiece that has a certain significance in their life (for example, a watch from their birth year). 

Lastly, today’s customers are now more comfortable with buying and reselling their watches in a short space of time. Before, it used to be the norm to buy a luxury watch and keep it for decades and pass it down to the next generation. Now, consumers are much more comfortable with coming to a specialist like us and selling a watch they no longer love or trading it in for something they have had their eye on. This has made watches a quasi asset and store of value. 

What trends do you forecast for the future? 

We already saw a preview of these in the last 3 years, and I expect to see more.

Vintage reissues – The charm of vintage watches lies in their timeless design and unique history, but sometimes collectors just want a modern movement and a brand-new watch. A vintage reissue gives the best of both worlds. Vintage re-editions that are hot right now are the Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 and the Zenith Chronomaster Original. 

Bold colors – Even the usually conservative Rolex has jumped into the trend and paid homage to their lacquered Stella Dials from the 70s. Whereas collectors before wanted their watches to be subdued and classic, they’re more open to bold watches that make a statement – a brightly colored dial sure helps. Watchmakers are also introducing gradient dials, adding depth and dimension to the watch face. 

More brands adopting the used/certified pre-owned model – In 2022, Rolex began to offer its own certified pre-owned program through dealers, and we expect more brands to do the same. As I’ve said in other interviews, the news is overall really good for the pre-owned space. Rolex will add credibility to buying pre-owned and make it even more mainstream. 

Why do you think watches have been able to survive the digitalization of society so effortlessly? 

Excuse the pun, but mechanical watches are timeless. Today’s smartwatch or smartphone will be obsolete in a few years and replaced with a newer model. Yesterday’s Rolex or Omega or Patek will remain desirable for years to come. 

Many watch brands have been around for generations, and their designs have stood the test of time. People know the level of attention and craftsmanship that goes into making a watch, and that is something that simply cannot be replicated by digital devices. 

What do you hope customers will take home with them after experiencing SwissWatchExpo? 

At SwissWatchExpo, we really treat our customers like family. We are motivated by their satisfaction and not the amount of money they spend. We don’t pay our staff on commission so our customers don’t have to worry about being pressured into a sale.

We also build long-term relationships with our clients, and we see it as helping a friend choose a watch. Most times they seek us out because they want a particular piece or want to sell a watch they no longer wear; we make sure we are there for them beyond these instances. When they want to shop for a watch for the holidays, buy a watch for their spouse or child, or when they celebrate a work anniversary, we are there to advise them. We guide them and advise them throughout the process. 

Is there an appreciation for pre-owned, vintage watches that newer models simply can't attain? 

Vintage watches have a history that newer models cannot replicate. Some vintage watches may have been owned by famous personalities or have been used in significant events, making them highly sought after by collectors. Some are also rare and hard to find, because they were only produced in limited quantities or for a short period. The hunt for these timepieces is part of the fun of collecting. 

Lastly, vintage watches often develop a patina. They are also made with unique materials and movements, and often these are no longer produced, and that adds to their charm. 

What personal favorite watches? Highlights from your personal collection? 

I just turned 40 years old in April of this year and to celebrate I acquired a Patek Philippe 5935A-001. I love the pinkish salmon dial on this World Time Chronograph. Also although the Patek Philippe World Time dates back to 1937 they only made it in precious metals, and last year was their first year releasing it in stainless steel. I acquired the piece at the beginning of the year but I have been waiting to wear it till after I turned 40.