A temporary glass covered triangular shaped tunnel with a matching fountain and white fluorescent lights has descended into the Cour carré du Louvre reminiscent of the spaceship that landed in the Cour Lefuel, an unused courtyard inside the Louvre museum for last season’s show.
Only this time the complex tunnel had freshly painted wooden floors, slick black shiny steel borders and large glass panels. For the models wearing a kaleidoscope mixture of old, techno fabrics, matte, photo prints, precious silk to denim with silhouettes of large and full billow sleeves paired with shorts and vests or slim fitted jackets; some of which are now signature Nicolas Ghesquière’s looks with a sense towards the future with silhouettes that recalled the galore of the 1980’s.
Like the nylon oversized print with sequins embroidery zippered blouson. Worn with a white tee and short skirt that opened the show. The core and the strength of the collection was the emphasis on the combination of techno materials with leather, suede, wool, silk and embroideries with an overall look of oversize proportions. This not only rang true for short coats and jackets but for elements like giant sleeves on many of the blouses. The white or beige with grey splash rigid rubber coat that nearly rendered the model static in her walk was a feat of construction – the material is made of rubber on the outside with reinforced foam in the middle so the coat can retain its shape.
The metallic silver jumpsuit with jacquard floral embroidery reminiscent of shiny silver fabrics associated with the space age and rightfully so since space suits were made in these silver reflective materials, sported sleeves with rings at the top, only one example of the extraordinary combination of materials and fabrics. The silk velvet logo print short dress with inset of silk print and its twisted sequins embroideries with white plastic rectangular fringes hanging from the shoulder along with the white sequins and crystal beaded short dress featuring oval shape silver plastic cut outs sown in irregular patterns continued to combine unexpected materials and fabrics.
In the middle of the show there was a moment of confusion as two apparent male models – although they actually were androgynous looking girls but not tomboys - appeared wearing a grey XXL dropped shoulder large lapel pantsuit or a white slim fitted single breasted jacket and black pant - looks that did not seem to fit in with the overall presentation at first but were part of the focus on tailoring. With versions of these jackets, some cropped, some trompe d’oeil double breasted wool worn with a floral cotton shorts and a simple white shirt. It was sort of a reality check midway through the show dominated by more artistic garments.
The ubiquitous sneakers that were instant best sellers from Spring 2018 were nowhere present as black leather heels with side ruffles and pointed ankle boots replaced the perennial streetwear footwear of choice. Sure the new and smaller sized bags for spring will surely be hot sellers such as the parallelogram shape Tourniquet, the triangular trapeze in its many iterations, the egg shape Oeuf small evening bag, the saucer like Toupie in classic monogram or the new Bumbag, yes a formal name for a fanny pack. No worry here as plenty of merchandises await customers.
All of the so called ‘codes’ that Ghesquière has established since arriving at LV were omnipresent – the delivery of tailoring in often unusual ways, the explosive color and print and unexpected subtle embellishments, the combination of garments from different eras past and present– but at times the amalgam of these elements merged onto one garment felt like being trapped within the glass tube at the courtyard of the Louvre. In a Paris season teemed with how designers are moving fashion forward, this show relies more on artistic creation and high applause for that rather than on proposing a real full wardrobe for customers. Taken apart, the collection is more item driven – a cropped rubber and leather blouson, a suede and leather pea-coat with snap buttons, the jackets with zippers front, the sleeveless tees with photo print, and the many tailored jackets and coats.
Photos courtesy of Louis Vuitton
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