Enfants Riches Déprimés (ERD) showed their Printemps/Été 2025 collection at Sotheby’s Paris, delving into themes of societal exclusion, and the silent oppression that defines the modern experience. The collection serves as a boldly placed vintage aesthetic critique of capitalism and the universal worship of wealth and youth. It shows through bleak, deconstructed designs accented with antique silver, bronze, and luxurious silk. Through this doll-like style, comes a vintage patchwork facade of new designs and dresses unleashing characters endlessly for the audience's gaze.

The runway transformed into a thought-provoking installation, with designer Henri Alexander employing the motif of the cage to symbolize the alienation felt in today’s postmodern landscape. Models were placed within a series of cages, echoing the “stainless steel (synthesizer) prison unit” introduced by the brand earlier this year. This setting created a powerful juxtaposition between excesses and oppression, with structured tailoring— the Napoleonic jackets and tailored vests—paired against lamé sweaters and daring skin-baring shorts.

“Everything for me is very personal. My collections are emotional, reflecting what I’m going through,” Alexander shared, emphasizing the iterative process of creation. The collection’s raw seams and self-binding details offered a unique visualization of constraint, the glossy materials highlighted the emptiness of excess. Leather played a central role in the collection also embodying the darker narrative of forced assimilation and rejection. Trench coats constructed from varied layered belts adorned with jingling silver chains showcased a striking blend of fetishism and elegance. With a nod to power dynamics and submission.

The atmosphere was further charged by the appearance of young baronets in frayed pastel culottes and a light blue dress reminiscent of Sofia Coppola’s Marie Antoinette, blending historical references with contemporary critique. A cream silk dress featuring trompe l’oeil lingerie details, paired with ERD’s signature towering platforms. This added depth to the visual narrative ERD was trying to display. As well as one unexpected twist; a smaller cage on a model’s wrist housed a live rat, encapsulating the collection's provocative edge. The looks remain timeless and show a refreshing take on vintage allure; captivating. Enfants Riches Déprimés masterfully navigates the complexities of wealth, alienation, and societal expectations.