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One&Only Palmilla | A Star is Born With Hoshi Dining

A Conversation With Chef Hiroki

Written by

Lily Brown

Photographed by

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Where the Sea of Cortez meets the bay of San José del Cabo, stories are written in the sand and starlight. The storyteller? Beachfront resort sanctuary, One&Only Palmilla. The resort, nestled into a private, swimmable pocket of Baja California, enables guests to savor the near-endless Mexican sun while embarking on a unique culinary adventure.  

One&Only Palmilla is now home to Hoshi, a world-class omakase restaurant that bridges the timeless grace of Japanese design with the affective warmth of coastal hospitality. Sister restaurant to Hoshi at One&Only Desaru Coast (Malaysia) and Hoshi at One&Only Reethi Rah (Maldives), Hoshi means “star” in Japanese—an apt name for a restaurant that embodies the Japanese principle of shibui: simple, subtle, and unobtrusive beauty. At Hoshi, the freshest seasonal catches are transformed into masterpieces of Japanese artistry.

Hoshi's menu is a harmonious fusion of flavors, deeply rooted in the traditions of Japanese folklore, especially the magical Tanabata Star Festival. Each omakase experience tells a story of its own, blending culinary mastery with cultural tales. The Tentei option enchants with an array of appetizers, premium nigiri, and signature robata dishes, while the Kengyuu delights with delicate tempura and soothing miso soup. The Orihime menu, meanwhile, honors tradition with a creative twist, offering soups and unique specialties. With the opening of Hoshi at One&Only Palmilla, the renowned restaurant makes its debut outside of Asia, offering guests a culinary experience that blends harmony, cultural fusion, and food masterful artistry. We sat down with Chef Hiroki Arai to explore his vision within this dynamic space.

Can you describe how the unique region of Baja may be influencing the creativity of cuisine at Hoshi?

The bounty of Baja's waters offers us an unparalleled selection of fresh seafood, delivered daily by local purveyors. Notably, the region is home to a world-renowned bluefin tuna, and it is my privilege to serve what is truly some of the finest quality bluefin available. Furthermore, our culinary approach incorporates the distinct techniques and flavors inspired by Mexican traditions. At Hoshi, we strive to not only honor the essence of traditional Japanese cuisine but also to infuse it with the unique flavors of Baja, creating an experience that delights and surprises our guests.

What have you found unique about bringing this concept to life at One&Only Palmilla?

Here, we do more than just serve food; we craft an immersive journey that includes witnessing the mastery of our chefs, engaging with them, and understanding the stories behind each dish, all while receiving highly personalized service. This concept seamlessly aligns with the ultra-luxury ethos of One&Only Palmilla, ensuring that our guests leave with memories of an extraordinary stay, further enriched by their dining experience at Hoshi.

What is something you were taught as an aspiring chef that you have never forgotten?

During my training in Japan, my first mentor imparted two invaluable lessons that have remained with me: "OLD and DIRTY are different," and "Chefs are like candles—they have the power to transform a simple cake into something truly special." The first lesson emphasizes the importance of meticulous daily cleaning. A well-maintained restaurant, even after a century, exudes a warmth and character that allows its history to be felt in every wood grain, wall, and doorway. The second lesson speaks to the essence of being a chef. While anyone can follow a recipe, it is the chef's touch that turns a meal into an unforgettable bright experience, making an ordinary dinner into a cherished memory. These teachings continue to guide me in my culinary journey.

In your opinion, what is the most exciting plate you are currently presenting?

Chilean sea bass miso and Hojicha ice cream. I really recommend these two dishes. We marinated Fresh Chilean sea bass with sweet miso for three days and grilled it with charcoal. It is served with our unique sauce yuzu miso cream. Hojicha ice cream is served with crystallized shiso leaf. Its crunchy texture is a good combination with our special smooth coconuts panna cotta.

Photos courtesy of One&Pny Palmilla
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FLAUNT Magazine, One&Only Palmilla, Hoshi, Chef Hiroki, Lily Brown
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