It’s refreshing to see collections presented in fashion week that feel like they're utilizing narrative devices that extend beyond our visual understanding of fashion. Laura and Deanna Fanning, directors of Kiko Kostadinov womenswear, gave a stunning presentation in Paris with the Autumn/Winter 2025 collection. The fashion house is stepping up to the plate in terms of forward-thinking design language. This womenswear collection is in direct conversation with Kostadinov’s menswear collection, surfacing a lot of the cultural discourse in and around fashion spaces, with this season's masterclass being a lesson in color and construction as powerful narrative tools. 

Raising questions about the sense of self, the Fanning sisters were inspired by the life of Vali Myers, an Australian artist and dancer widely known for her bohemian lifestyle. She chose Paris as her canvas for exploration, spending much of her time in creative spaces. In these moments, her life was reflected through her clothing, with little regard for anything other than the seamless transition from day to night or champagne to coffee. We’re currently existing at a time when our clothing becomes a substitute for our lives. We’re able to buy a sense of self, aesthetics flooding our feed, the pressure to prove our authenticity and our taste, and searching for it in our wallets. Characteristically for Kiko Kostadinov as a whole, the Fanning sisters are designing in opposition to these experiences. 

The looks give way to interpretation and experimentation, with an element of deconstruction presented specifically in the styling. The construction of the garments themselves allows them to be paired in ways that take shape to the body. Geometrically, certain elements define the hips and the shoulders. Calling back to the menswear show, traditional menswear elements are woven into the collection, like suiting.

Unique embellishments like rope and zippers create a raw and rugged feeling, emulating the spontaneity rooted in their inspiration. Traditional to the Kostadinov identity, tabi-style shoes are also featured in the collection alongside slouchy boots, furthering the bohemian spirit of the collection. Slips and undergarments stand out on the other side of the pendulum, giving an undone femininity to the collection. The colors in the collection emphasize playful truths with careful consideration. Ultimately, the Kostadinov team has given viewers a lot to chew on this season by continuing to thrust their design work into impactful cultural conversations.

‍