Kiko Kostadinov, the Bulgarian designer hailed for his avant-garde collections, presented his Fall/Winter 2025 collection at Paris Fashion Week with newly defining designs. Revered in the fashion community for his intricate garment construction, collaborations with Asics, Heaven by Marc Jacobs, and Hysteric Glamour, it’s safe to say that Kiko Kostadinov has been at the top of eBay searches for avant-garde fashion lovers everywhere. While the designer has flown under the radar for many years and is considered to be niche amongst popular interests, could this recent collection finally level audiences with the designer's artistry?

Straying from his last collection which included more minimal looks, design, and construction, this collection features raw and rugged looks with rich textures and colors. The loosely fitted pieces add movement to the looks, creating a relaxed and organic feel to the collection. Although different from his last collection, the looks are littered with Kostadinov classics like visible seams, stitching, and asymmetrical patterns. Overlapping fabrics create texture and dynamics on the runway. The details in this collection stand out and showcase Kostadinov's consistency with pattern-making and construction.  

Looks 3 and 4 are among the most notable, including intensely detailed stitching on the hem of the jackets and the side of the trousers. Much of the collection is reminiscent of Hungarian and Bulgarian military wear designs and textures, demonstrating strong and weighted looks. The layered styling also adds weight to the looks and creates visually complex imagery which demands attention from viewers to understand the looks as a whole, rather than individual garments. Much of the intricacy is found in each look's hidden corners, which complicates our understanding of storytelling in fashion. Kostadinov's commitment to his design identity is often overlooked, satisfying the hymns of high fashion and utility of practical wear. 

The collection also features a new collection of Asics shoes and showcases the classic Japanese split toe, popularized by Maison Margiela's tabi shoes. The ongoing controversy surrounding this silhouette adds to the demonstration of this collection, furthering the avant-garde complexities of the looks. The accessories feel like an extension of the garments rather than an embellishment which makes for cohesion on the runway. Kostadinov clearly leaves no stone unturned, leveling with the high fashion world and beyond that the voice of his design will be heard.