The Fall/Winter 2025 collection from Ottolinger explores truth, authenticity, and impermanence. In the modern world, a white t-shirt is not just a white t-shirt but a message of effortlessness, and a woman is not just a woman but an actress. Creative directors Christa Bösch and Cosima Gadient explore the growing pressures of performance and truth as something fleeting rather than fixed in this collection. Subversion sits at the forefront of their ethos, along with their commitment to handcrafted garments.
The looks in the collection are visually complex, with unconventional details like puffed accessories that accentuate parts of the model's body. These details, which can be found prominently on look 03, emphasize the subversion of traditional women's design techniques by accentuating the hips in an unconventional way on slim, form-fitting garments. Look 04 is a heavily layered look with contrasting textures, capitalizing on the need for fashion to look effortless for women. This approach is found in much of the collection, providing commentary on the demanding nature of women's fashion and the pressure to find intensely unique expression through fashion at every moment. To be a woman is to be watched, and when fashion is the first line of defense, the pressure to have something to say grows exponentially.
The references from fashion history are clear in this collection; the blazer in look 18 emulates techniques pioneered by subversive women's designers but with a fresh take. A large part of this collection emphasizes the imperfections of everyday life for women. Especially at a time when men are taking over the creative director roles in fashion, it’s important to champion women who design clothing for women. When it comes to exploratory demonstrations of design, Bösch and Gadient are well-informed not only by designers but by the feminine experience at large.